Articles

Articles

ENGLISH TRANSLATION BELOW: Martelize: As mentioned before, every Thursday we focus on being young. Your brain was discussed with a neurologist, and I mention it always because I think it is so crucial. Although we communicate with each other so effortlessly, we don’t actually interact with other people or form greater social bonds. Additionally, we discussed the importance of the beneficial flora in your stomach as well as the gut’s microbiome and organisms. Today we start with the skin and we have Doctor Ria Smit in the studio. Dr Ria works as a General Practitioner at the MooiKelder Estate in Paarl. Here she specializes in women’s health and aesthetic medicine. Our main focus is on when you need to and at what stage you should start looking after your skin? As you know, we grew up before the invention of SPF. Like me, you probably and most likely still enjoyed being outside, whether it was for outdoor activities or summertime tanning at the beach. Now there has been a significant shift and change in that regard. When should we begin using skincare products for kids? Dr Ria: Yes, it’s very neccessary Martelize. I suggest that parents make it a habit similar to their kids brushing their teeth to put on sunscreen before leaving the house in the mornings. This is the very first step in early skin care, and sunscreen is the number one and best product of all skincare products. A healthy lifestyle is also your skin’s first line of defense… Good sleep, and later in life, bad habits like drinking alcohol and smoking, for instance, are very bad for our skin. Therefore, the choices you make have an impact, but it begins with good habits, when you’re very little. Martelize: It’s interesting – we talked about that when we prepared for these discussions, so it’s not only about how to maintain a beautiful complexion. For instance, there’s a difference between that and what extra things to use to aid them a little. We’d like to go over everything with you, so let’s begin by discussing what constitutes good skin? Apart from skin cancer why do I need skincare? Why should someone prioritize their health over appearance? I tell people; You can use any product as long as it simply makes you seem beautiful. We don’t tend to focus on our skin as part of interior wellness rather just the outward appearance. Dr Ria: So yes, the skin’s health actually starts with what is still above and outside the skin. Our skin is covered with an Acidic Layer that we call the Acid Mantle and this is necessary for a healthy microbiome to thrive in. Then we get the superficial layer of the skin that we call the Epidermis. The Epidermis’ cells look like a brick wall, the epidermis constantly renews itself. In order to reach the Dermis, the deep layer of the skin. We need to strike a balance between the newly formed cells and the older cells that must eventually peel off. The Dermis, which contains a lot of Collagen and Elastin, is what gives our skin its rigidity and structure. The cells that produces it are in the dermis naturally, also blood vessel,s nerves, the immune cells that are in the skin and the hair follicles that also start in the Dermis. Martelize: I have given this question a lot of thought, and I like it. How, therefore, can our skin keep us youthful? How may I prolong the youthful appearance of my skin to stay young? I mean this literally as a health precaution? Dr Ria: Yes, without a doubt. Our skin plays a crucial part in our production of vitamin D, which is known to be essential for strong bones. However, vitamin D also affects other systems, including our immune system and mental health. The immune system is crucial, and our skin is how we connect with the outside world. Naturally, our skin would shield us from a variety of situations and daily hazards that we encounter. The microbiome plays an important role. This communication between the microbiome and the skin’s immune system, which, as you just discussed, communicates with the digestive tract’s microbiome. From the intestinal system, which contains immune cells, again to the brain. The skin, gut, and brain axis are discussed as being essential components of our immune system. I believe in the importance of physical touch for mental health which is essential for us. Indeed, there are a lot of factors the skin that will support maintaining good health. Martelize: Many years ago, I sat next to a Frenchman at a restaurant, and he subsequently informed me; that he had not taken a shower in five days and he did not smell like that at all. Was it just more hormones driving that? Then I had a conversation with a Dermatologist who said that we were showering too much. We use hot water and all kinds of soap and are scrubbing and removing our immunity in that way. Now it’s very hard for me to think that I haven’t showered for a day, not to mention 5 days… Do we damaged that microbiome or immunity every time we scrub ourselves off after sub-merging ourselves in very hot water or harsh or powerful soap. Dr Ria: There is balance in it, of course yes, too much is not good. But once a day or for those who have to clean twice a day is at least within limits. It matters which soaps we use and water also makes a difference. If we take the water of the Karoo which is a more alkaline, soap that is more alkaline, this has an influence on that acid layer. These are things that you can monitor yourself. If there is irritation, it often develops into skin sensitivity. Martelize: When it comes to your stomach and skin, doctor, it is so important. You can read what I was told this morning on Facebook: This chap’s, gut microbiota was so out of balance that his immunity was reduced to 60%, and it was a huge deal to restore to 90%. How are young girls being pampered today? Let’s take a short look at what age you mentioned to individuals There are certain creams used on 11-year-olds and 12-year-olds. We have to think about the future of our children’s skin. Dr Ria: It is not until adolescence that hormonal impacts begin to manifest. When the skin normally begins to change, and it’s usually rather noticeable when it does. Yes, one can discuss individual products in further detail, but Establish a good morning and nightly washing routine and Starting the day with sunscreen. I believe you’re referring to particular medication creams that contain Retinol or tretinoin and other similar compounds, and certainly, consulting with a doctor is necessary. Research indicates that it’s beneficial to begin such a routine before you develop severe acne, and that you should begin your routine—even if it’s just a very modest one, as soon as your young skin begins to alter. Be proactive because cleansing and moisturizing can help prevent acne, which ultimately starts there. Doctor, you already emphasized Vitamin D and the need of finding a good balance. Naturally, we need to be exposed to, direct sunlight. Additionally, you can’t always wear sunscreen when you need it because that’s when you get the proper amount of vitamin D. However, you also don’t want to get harmed. It’s a really challenging balance. Yes, please assist us there. Dr Ria: Yes, like you say, it’s a balance. Although the great majority of sunscreens don’t interfere with that process, some do contain physical filters. So it’s a good idea to be aware of what’s in your sunscreen. Things like titanium or iron oxide. The oxide is only one example, but there are more. Additionally, 15 minutes of sun exposure on the arms and legs,—the less sensitive areas, is typically sufficient to promote the absorption of vitamins E and D. And if you’re worrying about your vitamin D levels, especially if you’re a little older, just talk to your doctor about it. As we all know, even in the Cape’s winter, those few minutes a day can be challenging. Martelize: Just to be aware of your SPF for both the environment and yourself. There are specific SPF that are damaging to coral reefs worldwide, a conversation for another day. Yes or no, those lovely sunburn tanning beds? Dr Ria: This is an absolute no, We already know that they can cause even more damage than the sun in our skins. They also lead to the formation of skin cancers, squamous cell cancer and basal cancer. So please rather stay away and find another way or wear the skin tone you have. Martelize: Dr Ria Smit here in the studio and we focus on the field. Thank you so much, and we’ll be taking the journey with you, doctor. Here at the studio, Dr. Ria Smit, we concentrate on skincare. It’s time to examine what we are discussing, youth, and one of those things we wish for. Learn how to stay as youthful as long as possible on the surface and in terms of health. Dr Ria Smit will return next week. Dr Ria Smit, is a doctor, a general practitioner who specializes in aesthetic medicine and the health of women on the Mooikelder Estate in Paarl. Thank you Doctor
JONK – RSG 1 August 2024 – Translation Martelize: What can I use at home? I want to focus on my budget, or I want to use natural products. Dr Ria: Milk baths of the Egyptians come to mind. Milk has the benefits of gently moisturizing, but also lactic acid can gently exfoliate the skin. Other ingredients that have benefit for the skin to moisturize is olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, honey and avocado oil. Gentle exfoliators can be found in papaya and fruit acids. What people should know is that our skin is built to keep harmful substances out – we don’t know how deep these ingredients will penetrate the skin. We also don’t know what concentrations of the active ingredients are present in home mixtures. Skin on the body can be experimented with, but skin on our faces is a lot more sensitive and one must be careful what you use there. I have seen people cause damage by using home mixtures. Natural does not necessarily mean safe. Also, because the skin helps to keep harmful substances out, you may not have any benefit from a home remedy because it is not formulated to penetrate and therefore may have no effect at all. Martelize: Which products can I get from a shop? Dr Ria: We use the skincare pyramid as reference. The base of the pyramid is the protection of the skin, and this is products that help to repair and protect the barrier function of the skin. In this phase we look at sunscreen - make sure that your product provide protection against HEVL = High Energy Visible Light and IR – R Infrared radiation as well as protection against UVA and AVB. In this first phase we also incorporate antioxidants and moisturizers. In the next phase we incorporate retinoids and fruit acids to help aid cell turnover. At the very top of the pyramid and the last products to add is things like growth factors and exomes and where we would start doing treatments to the skin. Martelize: What does a skincare routine look like? Dr Ria: In the morning – first off will be a face wash which has fruit acids in there to help exfoliate. This is followed by antioxidant serum – the star ingredient remains vit C, but other antioxidants are also available. This step is followed by moisturizer and lastly sunscreen. If you feel it is enough, your sunscreen can also double as a moisturizer. Don’t forget about eye cream. In the evenings you would use the same face wash, ideally followed by a retinoid product and lastly moisturizer. Again, do not forget about an eye cream. Martelize: I use eye cream on my forehead and decollete – as it is more sensitive areas. Let’s talk about pigmentation. What is the difference between a pharmacy product and product from a doctor. Is it possible to use products to get rid of it? Women that have been pregnant for example often suffer with this. Dr Ria: There are definitely very effective treatments for pigmentation, but the public should know that unfortunately no single treatment that provide a permanent solution. The important thing to remember is that any treatment should be followed by some kind of maintenance treatment to prevent pigmentation from returning. Also to incorporate face, neck and decollete with treatments. Martelize: Do have to visit with a doctor / dermatologist or is it ok to obtain products from a pharmacy? Dr Ria: Products available from pharmacies are licensed to be used for epidermis where products from a doctor will penetrate to the dermis and have effect there. People also have a misconception that products from a doctor will always be more expensive – where it is quite the opposite. You may find more effectiveness with the same cost or even less in some circumstances. Aesthetic doctors have the means to do prescriptions for active ingredients where skincare may become very cost effective.

Dr. Ria Smit vertel wat ‘n dokter kan doen om jou jonk te laat lyk, soos Botulinumtoksien-inspuitings.

Professional Treatments for Skin

ENGLISH TRANSLATION BELOW:

JONK – RSG 8 August 2024 – Translation

What is the next step & How can a doctor help you to look younger?

Martelize: Welcome back dr Ria Smit. She is a doctor at the Mooikelder Estate in Paarl with her practice focused on Women’s Health and Aesthetic Medicine.
Last week we looked at products and ingredients, what works, what doesn’t. Today we want to discuss what is the next step. Going to the doctor with certain concerns about your skin – you want to look a little better. What can the doctor do? Welcome doctor.

Dr Ria: Thank you Martelize, I appreciate the opportunity.

Martelize: So, I do a facial about once a year – sometimes once every 5 years. There is no good translation into Afrikaans for facial. What exactly is a facial for those of us that do not know.

Dr Ria: A Facial as the word explains is focused on the skin of the facial and directly adjacent areas. It aims to gently remove superficial dead skin cells and to moisturize the skin. Different products are used to obtain this, but part of such a treatment is also the massage that help to improve lymph drainage and stimulate blood flow to the skin. A facial is usually done in a calm, quiet environment to provide the added benefit of that – so, a holistic approach to general wellbeing.

Martelize: I love a facial and prefer this to a body massage. How many times a year do you recommend this treatment? Does it help at all to do this once a year?

Dr Ria: This really depends on the individual’s skin and what it is that you would like to obtain with these types of treatments. We’ll probably discuss this soon. Essentially every little bit helps.

Martelize: So, someone would like to do more than just a facial. What options are there, doctor?

Dr Ria: This is where I recommend that one visits the practice of a doctor with the necessary training in Aesthetic Medicine. At such a practice – even if the doctor does not perform all the treatments – the therapists (somatologists) that may perform some treatments would do them under the guidance and supervision of the aesthetic doctor. Typically, we would compile a complete treatment plan taking into consideration your medical history, your preferences, expectations and aims. Some of the advance treatments may have potential side effects.
So, we must decide if you want to focus on skin only, or also treat deeper than skin level which would be the ideal. We must decide what is best for you as the individual.

Martelize: So, you want to tell me it is also about what you eat and what you drink? Your skin reveals these things also?

Dr Ria: Absolutely correct. These things play a role and as we discussed previously it has to be addressed to obtain optimal results. I do see it often in practice even when it comes to medical conditions. It does affect the skin and if these medical conditions are not appropriately addressed and treated, we struggle to obtain effective results for the skin. For us ladies hormones also play a role – especially around the years when things typically change – the teenage years and again around menopause.

Martelize: So many things! We are talking to dr Ria. We already discussed in previous episodes what you can do at home, today we are discussion what is next – more advanced. Next question: What is Botulinum Toxin?

Dr Ria: Yes, Botulinum Toxin is a protein produced by the Clostridium Botulinum bacteria. It has been isolated and researched since the early 1900’s. It’s first use medically was to treat strabismus in children and subsequently the cosmetic benefits were noted. In the 1980’s it entered the Aesthetic Medicine market and is currently the most commonly used treatment in Aesthetic Medicine.

Martelize: Is this now what we refer to as BOTOX? In the common language?

Dr Ria: To be correct I have to refer to botulinum toxin in order not to advertise or give unjust advantage to a particular product. BOTOX was the original botulinum toxin manufactured by the company ALLERGAN. Since, other toxins were also produced and licenced. In South Africa we have DYSPORT and XEOMIN as other licenced products. The toxins work on muscles. By reducing the action of a muscle or muscle group the forming of lines and wrinkles are reduced.

Martelize: I know now there are different versions, but I am going to refer to BOTOX. The use has really changed over the years. People’s foreheads looked really frozen because of these muscles they cannot use anymore. Where do we stand currently? Where should we inject?

Dr Ria: Right, this can be used for most muscle groups in the face. The group that we treat most is the frown that make us look angry, the forehead when we lift the eyebrows and then also the lines around the eyes that form when we pinch the eyes tightly for example with laughing. It can also be used in the lower part of the face: the chin or the muscles that lead the mouth corners to turn down to make a sad face, then we get an upturn of the mouth corners. It also helps to create a defined jawline by treating strong muscles in the neck. As you mention however the approach to treatment is individualized, we analyse muscle groups to see how exactly you use your muscles to adjust injection points to the individual. We can also adjust the amount of toxin used in order to soften the effect of a muscle without removing the movement completely. Injections must be done and monitored by a doctor. Recurrent low dose injections too often may lead to a tolerance developing and subsequent total lack of effect.
We want to treat with enough to have good effect, but also treat as such that it does not look unnatural.

Martelize: Not to go too far.

Dr Ria: Yes, not go too far. We repeat treatments typically every 3-4 months to maintain effect.

Martelize: Why do they say that you must start treatment as a young person if you are worried about lines developing? Before you get a line you have to start Botox – is it true?

Dr Ria: Every person has to decide for themselves of course. This is an elective treatment and therefore it depends on your preferences if you would like to address this or not. To treat as prevention is however better or easier than trying to treat a line that is already well established. In the latter case it may take a year or two – sometimes even longer for the skin to respond and heal itself by treating the underlying muscle.
Thus, if you treat early, you will prevent a line from becoming prominent, permanent or prevent it from forming altogether.

Martelize: This is the most diplomatic answer. This concludes our conversation. Taking the next step when you are ready.
– This was Dr Ria Smit. Her practice is focused on Women’s Health and Aesthetic Medicine.