ENGLISH TRANSLATION BELOW:

Dr. Ria Smit talks about hyaluronic acid and our skin.

1. What is Hyaluronic Acid (HA) and where is it found?
Hyaluronic acid is a sugar molecule—a glycosaminoglycan—that occurs throughout the human body.
The highest concentrations are found in the skin, eyes, joints, and connective tissue, with about 50% located in the skin.
It looks like a chain where the same molecule repeats itself. We find short chains and long chains—and everything in between. This determines how and where the molecule can act.
Hyaluronic acid has a very high turnover rate, lasting only a few hours to a maximum of two days in the body.
It is also found in nature in various animals and bacteria.
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2. Why is it such a buzzword in skincare?
• It’s a fantastic molecule and absolutely deserves the attention it gets!
• From around the age of 30, our own HA production decreases, so supplementation helps.
• The main reason is its outstanding ability to attract and hold onto water.
• Social media often claims that HA can hold up to 1000x its own weight in water. This is not technically correct, but HA does play an integral role in hydration, which gives the skin plumpness, suppleness, and structure.
• Despite being a “chemical acid,” it is not irritating, is safe, and is very well tolerated by most skin types. It can be used deep in the dermis as well as superficially in the epidermis.
• It also contributes to important skin functions such as inflammation control and wound healing.
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3. How can I support the hyaluronic acid in my skin?
The simplest way is to apply it topically at home in the form of a serum or cream.
However, know that what is available for home use works only in the epidermis—the outer layer of the skin.
The epidermis itself consists of four layers:
• Long-chain HA cannot penetrate deeply and stays in the upper layers of the epidermis or even on the surface of the skin, forming a protective barrier.
• Short and very short chains can penetrate deeper, reaching the basal membrane of the epidermis.
Even the smallest HA molecule is still too large to pass through the basal membrane. This means creams and serums cannot supplement the deep dermis layer.
HA in the dermis can be replenished when an aesthetic doctor injects it using a needle—for example, as a hyaluronic acid skin booster, mesotherapy serum, or even a filler.
And of course, lifestyle plays a role:
A healthy lifestyle and sun protection help preserve the skin cells in the epidermis and dermis that naturally produce HA, while also slowing down its breakdown.
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4. Why is it only such a big buzz now?
• HA and its benefits have been known for a long time.
• The first medical use dates back to the 1970s.
• In the 1990s, it appeared in aesthetic medicine in the form of HA fillers.
• Initially, it was extracted from rooster combs, but later it was produced via fermentation processes using bacteria.
• It took time for production methods to improve and make HA widely available.
• Because HA is unstable, formulations had to be developed that were stable enough to have a shelf life.
• The salt form (sodium hyaluronate) and hydrolyzed HA are more stable versions and are now widely used.
• These forms typically provide shorter chains, which are especially beneficial for home skincare products.
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5. How do I know if I have a good product?
When a doctor performs an HA treatment, you are entitled to confirm the following:
• Only medical doctors and dentists legally registered with the HPCSA may perform these treatments in South Africa.
• Additional registration with AAMSSA (Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Society of South Africa) helps ensure your doctor has the necessary training in aesthetic medicine.
• The products themselves are approved by SAHPRA (South African Health Products Regulatory Authority).
The public must be aware that there are many people pretending to be doctors who use counterfeit, cheap products illegally imported from countries such as China, India, and Russia, creating serious risks.
For home use:
• Since HA production now takes place globally (with China being a major supplier), it’s not always easy to know exactly where your molecule comes from or how pure the formulation is.
• Medical-grade products are typically subject to higher standards than general products.
• Gel or serum formulations usually penetrate deeper than creams.
• It helps if your product specifies whether it contains high, low, or very low molecular weight HA—or a combination. This determines how deeply in the epidermis it will work.
• Look out for wording such as “pure hyaluronic acid,” “hydrolyzed HA,” or “sodium hyaluronate.”
If possible, try to find out where your product is manufactured and under what standards. Is it produced in a proper lab or facility with infection-control standards, or in someone’s backyard?
Ultimately, the real answer lies in how your skin responds to the product.
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6. When is the best time of day to use an HA product?
The best time is in the evening, during the skin’s repair phase. It’s beneficial for the skin to be well-hydrated and nourished overnight.
It’s not wrong to apply HA in the morning, but sometimes it can cause makeup not to apply as smoothly.